I honestly didn't think I'd fall this hard for the wiksten haori pattern, but here we are with three versions hanging in my closet and plans for a fourth. If you've spent any time in the online sewing community, you've definitely seen this jacket. It's that perfectly oversized, boxy, Japanese-inspired piece that seems to look good on literally everyone. It's become a bit of a cult classic for a reason, but if you're just starting out or sitting on the fence about buying the pattern, there are a few things you might want to know before you dive in.
Why This Pattern is Everywhere
The first time I saw the wiksten haori pattern, I was drawn to its simplicity. It's designed by Erica Knight, and it captures that "slow fashion" aesthetic perfectly. It isn't just a jacket; it's a layering piece that works in almost every season depending on what you make it out of.
One of the coolest things about it is that it's fully lined. Now, don't let that scare you. Usually, the word "lining" makes beginner sewists want to run for the hills, but the construction of this haori is actually really clever and surprisingly straightforward. It's one of those projects where you finish it, flip it right side out, and feel like a total professional because all the messy seams are hidden away inside.
Choosing Your Fabric Wisely
Fabric choice changes the entire vibe of this garment. Because the wiksten haori pattern has such a simple silhouette, the drape and weight of your material do all the heavy lifting.
If you want that structured, coat-like feel, go for something like a mid-weight canvas or a heavy-duty denim. For my second version, I used a sturdy cotton-linen blend, and it's my go-to "house coat" when the weather gets chilly. It feels substantial and holds its shape really well.
On the other hand, if you want something that feels more like a cardigan or a light wrap, go for a washed linen or even a silk noil. I've seen some versions made in double gauze that look like absolute dreams—soft, squishy, and perfect for summer nights. The only thing to keep in mind is that since it's lined, you're basically doubling the weight of your fabric. If you pick two heavy layers, you're going to end up with a very warm, bulky jacket.
Mixing and Matching Prints
Since the jacket is reversible (or at least, it can be if you're careful with your finishing), it's a great opportunity to play with color and pattern. You can go for a "boring" neutral on the outside and a wild, vibrant print on the inside. Or, if you're feeling bold, use a contrasting fabric for the large fold-over collar. That collar is the focal point of the whole design, so highlighting it with a different texture or color can really make the piece pop.
Let's Talk About Sizing
If there is one thing you need to hear before cutting into your expensive linen, it's this: the sizing is incredibly generous.
I cannot stress this enough. The wiksten haori pattern is designed to be oversized, but for some people, it can feel a bit "swimming in fabric" if they go by their standard measurements. Most people in the sewing community suggest sizing down at least one, if not two, sizes.
I usually wear a size 8 or 10 in ready-to-wear clothes, but for this pattern, I made the size 2. Even then, it's still roomy enough to wear a thick sweater underneath. My advice? Measure the actual pattern pieces or check the finished garment measurements. Think about how you want it to fit. Do you want a slim, streamlined look, or are you going for that "stole this from a giant" aesthetic? Both are valid, but you don't want to be surprised by the sheer volume of fabric once you're done.
The Sewing Process: Tips and Tricks
The actual construction of the wiksten haori pattern is fairly meditative. There aren't any zippers, buttons, or complicated closures to worry about. It's all about straight lines and clean folds.
One tip I have is to be really diligent with your pressing. Because the collar and the front edges are so prominent, a crisp press makes the difference between something that looks homemade and something that looks like it cost $200 at a boutique. I like to use a lot of steam and a tailor's clapper to get those edges laying flat.
Those Iconic Pockets
The pockets on this jacket are massive. They're deep enough to hold your phone, your keys, and probably a small snack. When you're sewing them on, make sure you reinforce the top corners. Since the jacket is oversized, you'll find yourself shoving your hands in those pockets a lot, and you don't want the stitching to pop over time.
Managing the Bulk
When you're sewing the collar to the main body, you're going to be dealing with several layers of fabric. If you've chosen a thick material, this part can get a little chunky. Take it slow, use a heavy-duty needle if you need to, and don't be afraid to grade your seams (which just means trimming the different layers of the seam allowance to different widths to reduce the bump). It makes the final result look much more polished.
Styling Your Haori
Once you've finished your wiksten haori pattern, the fun part begins. I love how versatile it is. In the spring, I wear my linen version over a simple white t-shirt and light-wash jeans. It looks intentional but effortless.
In the winter, the wool version comes out. I'll layer it over a turtleneck and leggings. Because the sleeves are wide, you can easily roll them up to show off the lining, which adds a nice bit of visual interest. It's also the perfect "travel jacket." It feels like wearing a blanket, but you actually look put together when you're walking through an airport.
Is It Worth the Hype?
I've seen some people wonder if the wiksten haori pattern is worth the price, especially since there are other jacket patterns out there. In my opinion, yes, it totally is. The instructions are some of the clearest I've ever used. They're well-illustrated and easy to follow, making it a great "first big project" for someone who has moved past basic tote bags and wants to try garment sewing.
There's also a huge community around this pattern. If you search the hashtag on Instagram, you'll find thousands of examples. It's so helpful to see how the jacket looks on different body types and in different fabrics before you start yours. It's like having a giant mood board at your fingertips.
Final Thoughts on Making One
If you're looking for a project that is satisfying to sew and even more satisfying to wear, the wiksten haori pattern is a solid choice. It's a canvas for your favorite fabrics and a piece that will likely stay in your wardrobe for years. Just remember to size down, pick a fabric you truly love, and take your time with the pressing.
I'm already eyeing a beautiful piece of quilted cotton for my next one. I think a quilted haori might be the ultimate cozy layer for lounging around the house on Sunday mornings. Honestly, once you make one, it's hard to stop. It's just that kind of pattern. Happy sewing!